The exit from the Temple of the Emerald Buddha brings you directly into the Central Court of the Grand Palace. This is where the king's audience halls, where he met the people and conducted the business of state, are located. The first building you will see is also the newest, the very European styled Phra Thinang Boromphiman, built in 1897 by King Rama V for his son. The mansion is never open to the public.
Boromphiman Mansion
Next to the mansion is the oldest building in the palace, the Phra Maha Monthien group. The throne hall with its magnificent golden palanquin backed by a boat-shaped pulpit is open to the public on weekdays only. Several other interesting buildings and pavilions surround the throne hall.
A 'bed' next to the Maha Montien throne hall
Right in the middle of the complex, and dominating it, is the Chakri Maha Prasat hall, sometimes called the "foreigner with a Thai hat" due to its mixture of styles. The building is still used for state occassions, so it isn't open to visitors. However, there is a small display of ancient armory in the base of the building.
The Aphornphimok Pavilion on the wall of the Dusit Maha Prasat throne hall
West of the Chakri Maha Prasat is the Dusit Maha Prasat group, perhaps the most elegant of the throne halls. On the outer wall of the Dusit Maha Prasat, Rama IV built the Aphornphimok Pavilion, where royal guests would be delivered or taken away on palanquins.
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Facing the Dusit Maha Prasat is a building now housing the Museum of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. You can exit the palace via the gate next to the museum.
On the east wall of the Dusit Maha Prasat, King Rama IV had a beautiful small pavilion built as a changing area for when he arrived or departed by palanquin (note the shoulder height platform on the outside of the pavilion in the photo.) The delicate golden Aphornphimok Pavilion is considered the very height of Thai art. Rama V loved the building so much he had it copied at the palace at Bang Pa In.
The modern central court is dominated by the curious Chakri Maha Prasat hall. The hall was built by King Rama V and completed in 1882. Its unusual design is due to some controversy during its construction. The original architect was a Briton working in Singapore named John Clunich. Rama V wanted an entirely western look to his new home, but others in the court argued that the king's residence and throne hall should reflect Siamese motifs.
The cruciform Dusit Maha Prasat throne hall was built by Rama I in 1790. The north face has a porch with a type of throne known as a busabok used by the king when giving public audiences. The building is one of the least altered and most elegant public buildings of the center court. Although the building has been used as a residence and audience hall, its primary purpose which survives to this day is as the lying-in-state place for kings, queens and favored members of the royal family.
The Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Coins is a small museum with a rather large collection of royal regalia, medallions and jewelry, as well as a big selection of Thai coins. The entrance to the museum is somewhat hidden among the small shops between the ticket booth and the entry to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Many people miss the museum, but it's actually quite interesting.
The entrance to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
The new guard shift enters the middle court. The Phimanchaisri Gate connects the Outer Court to the Central Court. It's among the most elaborate of the palace's gates, since it is the gate through which the King entered and left the palace in procession on special occasions. The photo below is looking out towards the Grand Palace's main entrance, the Wisetchaisri Gate.
The Phimanchaisri Gate to the middle court of the Grand Palace « Back
The group of buildings near the eastern edge of the central court were built to be the main residence and audience hall for the king. The main building of the group, barely visible to tourists, is the Chakraphat Phiman hall. It was the primary residence of the first three kings of the Chakri dynasty, and it is still customary for new kings to spend at least one night here after their coronation.
King Rama V had the Boromphiman Throne Hall built for his son and heir in 1897 (or 1903, depending on which source you believe). It was designed and built under the supervision of a foreign architect, which is why it is so entirely western in style.
The Phra Thinang Boromphiman palace You can take it with you.
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Sala Lukkhunnai in the outer court of the Grand Palace. The Sala Lukkhunnai building is perhaps one of the most elegant of the buildings constructed by Rama V to house his western-styled ministries. The Sala Lukkhunnai housed the Ministry of Interior in one wing and the Ministry of Defence in the other. The Gothic revival style was popular in the fifth reign, and can be seen in many other buildings, such as Wat Ratchabophit.
The Sala Sahathai Samakhom was also built by King Rama V as a military club. Originally, the columns on the outside formed a gallery, or veranda, around the building. The outer wall with its dark blue shutters was added later. Today, the building is used as a banquet hall by visiting dignitaries using the Borom Phiman mansion.
Sala Sahathai Samakhom in the Grand Palace The Sala Sahathai Samakhom borders the south side of the large lawn which borders the Temple of the Emerald Buddha on the west.
The building now housing the museum of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha was originally built by King Rama V to be the Royal Mint. The museum displays several artefacts associated with the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace. On the ground floor you'll find the bones of the former kings white elephants and old palanquins. Upstairs, the old costumes of the Emerald Buddha are on display as well as two models of the Grand Palace, one as it is today and the other depicting the palace when it was first built.
On passing through the gate in the outer wall of the grand palace, you find yourself on a wide stone path that leads up to the grand Phimanchaisri gateway into the middle court. However, at this point you're in the outer court.
During the time of the absolute monarchy, from Bangkok's founding in 1782 until the 1932 revolution, the Grand Palace was the complete center of government. The king acted as prime minister, and thus had many royal scribes, jurists and other government officials around him.
