Bangkok's vibrant Chinatown district runs along Yaowarat Road from Odeon Circle, where a huge ceremonial Chinese gate unmistakably marks the entrance, up to the Ong Ang Canal, which marks the outer boundaries of the royal district. Yaowarat Road itself is lined with many gold shops, and Chinatown is indeed one of the better places to shop for gold. However, just off the road in either direction is a whole other world where, it is said, you can find just about anything.
The gleaming new chapel housing the Golden Buddha in Wat Traimit
Chinatown is an easy place to explore on foot, and in fact there really isn't any other way. Our own suggested walking tour takes in many of the sights of Chinatown, as well as the Indian market at Phahurat and the flower market further on.
Chinatown History
The Chinese community in Bangkok pre-dates the founding of the Thai capital in the city. Indeed, the land where the grand palace is today was originally a community of Chinese traders. When King Rama I decided to establish the capital on the site of the village of Bangkok, he asked the traders to move. They settled to the east of the new city, along the river. It may be hard to believe today, but the narrow Sampaeng Lane, which isn't even big enough for a car, was once Chinatown's main street.
In 1902, the foreign community, who settled on the river further east of Chinatown, petitioned the king for a larger road. Yaowarat Road was built as a result, and the celebration of the road's 111th birthday was the highlight of Chinatown's 2003 Chinese New Year celebration.
Chinatown Sights
You can take it with you.
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Although there are many things to see in Chinatown, one of the biggest sights is the experience of the place as a whole. The best way to see the area is to pick a starting point and wander around. See the map for an orientation. In addition to the detailed pages listed below, here are a few other things to look for:
Historic Buildings
Chinatown is home to many examples of the architecture of Bangkok's early years. About 14% of the buildings in the district have been designated as historical landmarks. Most of them are off on side streets. One of the most well known is the is the Tang To Gung gold shop on Sampaeng Lane around Mangkon Road.
Sampaeng Lane
Chinatown's original main street is a small narrow alley which runs from the Phahurat Market all the way down to Songsawat Road. The lane is too small for cars, and is now a crowded market selling mostly inexpensive household items. Near the Tang To Gung gold shop is a very old Chinese pharmacy that is definitely worth a look.
Phahurat Market
The market is home to a huge number of fabric and wedding stalls. Its really the center of a small community of Sikhs and other immigrants from the sub continent.
The Old Siam
If the array of sights and smells is a bit too overwhelming for you, head over to the Old Siam shopping center, where you will find more tourist-friendly western and Thai restaurants and fast food outlets.
Chinatown can make for an interesting 'alternative' area to base yourself for a visit to Bangkok. It is rather central to many of the sights of the city. See my hotel recommendations for ideas on where to stay.
Getting There
The easiest way to reach Chinatown is by boat. Alight at the Ratchawong Pier and walk up Ratchawong Road to Sampaeng Lane or Yaowarat Road. You can also alight at the Harbor Department Pier, which is closer to Odeon Circle; or you can also use Memorial Bridge Pier, right at the flower market.
Alternatively, you can take the subway to Hua Lampong Station. From there it's a short walk to Wat Traimit (see map).
Chinatown's relatively central proximity to many sights makes it an interesting alternative place to stay. However, most of what's on offer is decidedly in the 'budget' class, or lower. Two interesting standouts are the Grand China Princess and the boutique Shanghai Mansion, both of which are listed below. For more options, search Agoda for the best available rates on Bangkok hotels.
Grand China Hotel Large hotel right at one end of the Chinatown area, and a short walk from a River Express dock.
The formal gateway to Chinatown in the Odeon traffic circle. The Chinatown Gate in the middle of the Odeon traffic circle marks the ceremonial entrance to one end of Chinatown. The gate is a relatively recent addition to the sights of the city. It was built in 1999 to commemorate the King's 72nd birthday, and celebrates the cultural diversity of the modern city.
The gate was just one of the most notable projects that marked the transition of Chinatown from a rather seedy district into a tourist destination in its own right.
Bangkok's Chinatown district is as old as the city itself. When King Rama I decided to build his new capital at the village of Bang Kok in the late eighteenth century, the land was then occupied by Chinese traders, who agreed to move their homes and businesses outside of the newly declared royal precincts. The new site chosen is today's Chinatown, which stretches along Yaowarat Road and the numerous narrow alley ways off it.
The shrine to the Goddess Kuan Ou in the Li Thi Miew temple compound. One of the larger and more open Chinese shrines in Bangkok's Chinatown is the Li Thi Miew temple on Plabplachai Road, not far from Wat Kanikaphon. The temple features a large shed-like roof sheltering several shrines. On the roof, as in most Chinese temples, two dragons play with a pearl. In the compound next to the temple building is a large shrine to the goddess Kuan Ou.
There was a time when the beautiful large shrine to Kuan Im of the Thien Fah Foundation was hidden behind a row of ugly shop-houses and could only be accessed through a narrow drive carved out of one of the shops. The buildings were removed a few years ago, so everyone can have a clear view of the shrine, which gets a lot of visitors on Chinese New Year as well as other special occasions.
Wat Chakrawat as seen from the main parking lot A short walk from Ratchawong Pier will bring you to Wat Chakrawat. Although the main temple compound is rather small, the temple houses one of the three largest groups of monks and novices.
Inside the small temple compound, a great many buildings in different styles are all crammed in together. Off to the right as you walk in the gate is a small wiharn with an outer wall decorated in a very unusual black and gold pattern.
Overall view of the main prayer hall A short way from the more well known Wat Mangkon Kamalawat in Bangkok's Chinatown is the much smaller temple of Wat Kanikaphon. The temple was actually founded by a brothel owner late in the nineteen century. The ubosot has some interesting features, such as the dark green tiles decorating the window frames, and the carved wooden grills that frame the ubosot's porches.
At the heart of Bangkok's Chinatown is the Chinese-Buddhist temple of Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, known in Chinese as Wat Leng Nui Yee. The temple is the center of festivities during important festivals such as Chinese new years and the vegetarian festival.
The main altar of Wat Mangkon Kamalawat You enter the temple through a passageway off Charoen Krung Road. The temple is a low rambling structure with the requisite dragons playing with a pearl on the roof.
The gleaming new chapel housing the Golden Buddha in Wat Traimit At one end of Chinatown, in what was once an otherwise unremarkable temple of Wat Traimit, sits the world's largest solid gold Buddha image. Made of about 83% pure gold and weighing in at five and a half tons, the 15-foot tall seated image is worth millions of dollars at today's gold prices.
The giant golden Buddha statue at Wat Traimit You can take it with you.
