The western bank of the Chaophraya River, although originally a separate city, is now part of Bangkok. However, it's still known by its old name of Thonburi. The most recognizable sight on this side of the river is the old towering temple of the dawn, Wat Arun. Aside from this, there isn't much here to attract the short-term tourist. But, if you have the time, there are some interesting neighborhoods and other sights to poke around in.
Its among Bangkok's quirkiest temples. The main feature is a large concrete mound set in a small pond full of turtles. The other temple buildings are exquisitely decorated, although the giant old whitewashed chedi is not well maintained.
Santa Cruz Church
Just north of Wat Prayoon is the old Portuguese community. In the middle of this area is the church of Santa Cruz, which is of the same curious mix of Portuguese and Chinese architecture that you find on Phuket.
Pom Wichai Prasit Fort
At the mouth of the Bangkok Yai canal stands the Pom Wichai Prasit fort, which once protected Bangkok from invading navies -- although it didn't keep out the European powers when they blockaded Bangkok in the late 19th century. The fort is now part of the navy's headquarters so its not open to the public, but the best vantage point to see it is from the river anyway.
Its the star of many a travel poster for Bangkok and Thailand. The old temple with its tower prang has just been fully reopened after a reconstruction which took many years.
Wang Lung Pier Area
The deceptively pedestrian-looking area around the Wang Lung Pier hides some rather surprising finds. These include museums, markets, a theater and a very old temple. See our article on the Wang Lung Pier area for more information.
Bangkok Noi Rail Station
The unimpressive Bangkok Noi Rail Station service mostly commuter routes, but is the place to go to catch a train to Kanachanburi (River Kwai).
Facing the rail station from the other side of Bangkok Noi is the Royal Barge Museum. In the old days, at least once a year the king would travel downriver in procession on the barges to Wat Arun, where he would present new robes to the monks. This doesn't happen much any more, but the ancient barges are on display in the large shed of the museum.
The area of Thonburi around the west end of the Memorial Bridge (Saphan Phut in Thai) is actually one of the oldest settled areas of Bangkok. Back when Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam, this was the site of the main docks where ships from China and Europe would dock, and offload cargoes to be sent further up the river to Ayutthaya. The district was home to settlers from many countries, such as China and India, and later the Portuguese and other Europeans. It's an interesting area to explore, which you can do on foot with my walking tour.
The eight storey pagoda in the Chee Chin Khor Moral Uplifting Society temple compound. If you travel along the river in Bangkok, you can hardly miss the towering Chinese style pagoda on the west bank of the Chaophraya river. This quite recent addition to the riverside temples and palaces is part of a large Chinese temple in a compound built by the Chee Chin Khor Moral Uplifting Society.
The very Chinese-styled temple of the society.
The cream-colored Church of Santa Cruz is about the only clue that this part of Bangkok was once the area where Portuguese merchants and missionaries once lived in the early years of Bangkok. The church was originally built in the late eighteenth century when Thonburi was briefly established as the capital of Thailand. It was rebuilt in 1834 and again in 1913.
The Church of Santa Cruz There's not much else to show that this area was once the home of the largest western presence in Thailand during the early years of Bangkok.
Perhaps the least visited part of Thonburi is the area around the Klong San Pier. The district is easily reached via a cross-river ferry from the Sriphraya Pier next to the Royal Orchid Sheraton hotel and River City shopping center.
The street leading away from the Klong San Pier is filled with market stalls, virtually all of which cater to fashionable young ladies on a budget. A bit further on there's also a large group of food stalls off to one side of the street.
On the river near the Princess Mother Memorial Park is the old Chinese shrine of Kuan Ou. Like most Chinese shrines around Bangkok, its not in any guidebooks and there isn't much background information available.
The old shrine of Kuan Ou. The modern river-side tower sheltering a goddess of the water. The shrine, or "godfather's hall" as they are called in Thai, almost certainly dates from before Bangkok's founding. This area was formerly the main port of Siam back in the time when Ayutthaya was the capital.
A statue of Patravadi in the courtyard of her theater. A short walk from the Wang Lung Pier is the beautiful contemporary theater complex of the Patravadi Theater complex. The theater company was established in 1992 by Patravadi Mejudhon, an award winning actress in movies, television and stage. She is also an acclaimed director and playwright.
The company also hosts the Institute for Performing Arts, which provides workshops to professionals as well as students of Chulalongkorn and Mahidol Universities.
Pong Patchamit Fort Pong Patchamit Fort was built around 1852 by King Rama IV to protect an important commercial canal. The fort was also used by the marine department, which used the huge flagpole nearby to signal the arrival of ships in the river.
The fort was nearly dismantled in 1949 but was hastily listed by the Fine Arts Department. It's not much to look at, and seem to mainly server as an outdoor lounge area for the police station across the street.
Tucked away just inside a canal across the river from the Grand Palace is the Royal Barge Museum. Here are displayed just eight of the over 50 barges that make up formal processions. That may seem like a lot, but during the Ayutthaya period, when the river was the main means of transport, royal barges apparently numbered in the thousands. The Abbé de Choisy, in his account of the first French embassy to Siam in 1685, writes of the embassy travelling upriver in hundreds of barges, some of which were the King's own.
The late Princess Mother
1900 - 1995 The late Princess Mother was, by just about every measure, a truly extraordinary woman. Born a commoner in 1900, this daughter of a goldsmith rose to become the mother of two kings. Its entirely arguable that Her Royal Highness Princess Srinakarin, as she was to be properly known, was the person most responsible for shaping modern Thailand.
Mae Fa Luang ('mother of us all'), as she is still commonly referred to by Thais, was born in Nonthaburi province north of Bangkok.
Thonburi Walking Tour Map The area of Thonburi around the west end of the Memorial Bridge (Saphan Phut in Thai) is actually one of the oldest settled areas of Bangkok. Back when Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam, this was the site of the main ports where ships from China and Europe would dock, and offload cargoes to be sent further up the river to Ayutthaya. The district was home to settlers from many countries, such as China and India, and later the Portuguese and other Europeans.
The Wang Lee House, as seen from the Chee Chin Khor pagoda. Adjoining the Chee Chin Khor Moral Uplifting Society on the banks of the Chaophraya river is the Wang Lee Mansion. The old Chinese styled house was once one of many large houses built by Chinese immigrants in the nineteenth century who came to the growing commercial center of Siam to trade.
The main entrance of the house. The traditionally styled courtyard house is one of the very few remaining examples of of these houses, which were once numerous in the Thonburi area.
It's the star of many a "visit Thailand" poster. Perhaps a better known symbol of Bangkok than the Grand Palace. It's Wat Arun, "the Temple of the Dawn." Unfortunately, being a cover model has its drawbacks, and the temple is probably a little too popular for its own good, but it's still such an outstanding monument that it's worth a visit.
Wat Arun - the Temple of Dawn - as seen from the river.
The ordination hall (ubosot) If you spend any time on the river as you explore Bangkok, you can hardly miss Wat Kalayanamit, with its massive wiharn close by the river on the Thonburi side. The temple isn't on the main tourist trail, but it is part of a pleasant walk through the old port district.
The temple was built by Rama III in the first half of the nineteenth century.
The odd building now used to house monks. Tucked away just inside the Bangkok Yai canal, right behind the Pom Wichai Prasit Fort is the small temple of Wat Molilokayaram. The temple dates all the way back to the Ayutthaya period, before Bangkok was the capital of Siam. After the Burmese destroyed Ayutthaya, when General Taksin restored order he established Thonburi as the capital and built his palace next to Wat Arun.
A short walk from Wat Prayoon or the Princess Mother Memorial Park is the large temple of Wat Pichai Yathikaram. You can see the towering prang of the temple from the river, but in fact the temple itself is a somewhat forgotten corner of old Bangkok and is worth a visit if you're checking out some of the other sights in this part of the city.
There's no record of when the temple was originally built.
Some fancy miniature houses for dead relatives Close to the banks of the Chao Phraya River, not far from Wat Arun, the temple of the Dawn, is Wat Prayoon. Built by Rama III early in the nineteenth century, the first thing a visitor sees on entering the temple is the large mound, said to have been designed by the king after he observed the shapes that wax forms as it drips from a candle.
On the Chaophraya river, almost facing the Grand Palace, is a small ancient temple now called Wat Rakhang Kositharam. The temple dates from the Ayutthaya period, but was significantly rebuilt during the reign of King Rama I at the end of the 18th century.
The north side of the ordination hall. The bells which give the temple its name. The temple's name means 'bell' and comes from the incident early in the Bangkok period, when a large bell was unearthed during some construction at the temple.
Near the very new, very Chinese styled temple of the Chee Chin Khor Moral Uplifting Society is the very old and unique Thai temple of Wat Thong Noppakhun. There's very little information available about this temple, including its age. The ubosot (ordination hall) appears to be very old, probably pre-dating the founding of Bangkok, although the Chinese style of the wiharn (prayer hall) suggests that it was built, or rebuilt, in the era of King Rama II.
Not far from the entrance to the Wang Lee Mansion along Chiang Mai Road is the small temple of Wat Thong Thammachat. The temple's name means 'golden nature' in Thai, and the temple stands in a small wooded park, which unfortunately is now used as a car park.
The ordination hall of Wat Thong Thammachat The temple dates from the Ayutthaya period, before Bangkok was the capital of Thailand. Its exact founding date is unknown.
