When King Rama I decided to move the capital to Bangkok, he had a series of defensive canals dug to protect the eastern approach to the city (the inner-most runs down the middle of the map below), effectively turning the core of the royal city into an island, called Ratanakosin. All of the government functions were originally operated from buildings and compounds located on Ratanakosin Island. Many are ostensibly still headquartered here, although most of the day to day operations are housed in suburban locations. There has been talk of turning many of these buildings into museums, similar to the Smithsonian in Washington DC, but not much has come of that.
Most tourists will visit the Grand Palace at the center of the island, and usually Wat Po as well. However, there's a lot more of interest than just these two sights. The walking tour will take you through many of the more unique sights of the royal city.
The city pillars of Bangkok and Thonburi Bangkok's city pillar lies off the northeast corner of the Grand Palace. The wooden stake was driven into the ground at 6:45 in the morning on the 21st of April 1782, a time determined by court astrologers to be the most auspicious. Most large Thai cities, expecial provincial capitals, have a city pillar, which acts as a sort of spirit house for the city's guardian spirits.
Facing the eastern wall of the Grand Palace is the yellow-and-white former palace building now occupied by the Ministry of Defense. On the front lawn of the ministry is a sort of open-air museum displaying cannons down through the ages. As many a guidebook once pointed out, most of the cannons were aimed at the Grand Palace. However, a few years ago (in the mid-2000s I think) the cannons were re-arranged so they didn't point at the palace.
The Siam Discovery Museum "What does it mean to be Thai?" That's the difficult, and potentially controversial, question tackled by Bangkok's newest museum, the rather redundantly named Museum of Siam Discovery Museum. The museum is housed in a beautiful cream-and-white confection of a building that used to house the Commerce Ministry. Although the exterior has been restored to the way it must have appeared the day it was completed 100 or so years ago, the interior is thoroughly modern.
The National Musuem lies in the grounds of the former Wang Na, the 'front palace' which was built for the second king, a sort of crown prince (Thailand has no law of primogeniture. The king traditionally named his own successor, who was often his brother rather than his son.) The post was eliminated by Rama IV and the National Museum was set up in the former palace in 1887.
This walking tour is designed to take you through some of these other sights. You can combine this tour with a visit to Wat Po or the Grand Palace, but either one of those can be a half-day trip in itself, so it might be a little too much to do in one go.
To start, take the Chaophraya Tourist Boat to the Thien Pier. If you'd rather not take the boat, you can take a taxi or public bus to Wat Po.
The balcony at the side of the Grand Palace where the king used to appear. Turn left upon leaving the temple and continue down to the end of the road. You'll once again be facing the outer wall of the Grand Palace across Sanamchai Road. Turn right to walk northward towards the Ministry of Defense. On your right is the original Saranarom Palace building, now the foreign ministry, while across the road on your left you'll see a large balcony in the wall of the Grand Palace.
The Ministry of Defense headquarters with its collection of cannons -- aimed at the Grand Palace. Further up the street is the Ministry of Defense building. Arranged on the front lawn of the building is a collection of cannons from Thai history. Its curious to note, as more than one guidebook does, that most of the cannons are aimed at the Grand Palace.
Next to the Ministry of Defense is Bangkok's City Pillar shrine.
The large oval field in front of the Grand Palace is in effect the nation's front yard. Commonly called Sanam Luang, it's also called Phra Men Ground. The huge open space is the scene of national celebrations on the King's birthday and other important holidays. It's also the place for sad times as well, since it's where royal cremations are held.
Looking north across Sanam Luang However, you will find people out for an evening stroll or a weekend afternoon picnic all year round.
Saranarom Palace was built by Rama IV (1858 - 1868) in 1866. He planned to use it after he abdicated but he died before it was completed. Rama V (1868 - 1910) gave the palace to his younger brother Prince Chakrabandhu when he came of age, and then his youngest brother Prince Bhanubandhu in his turn. By 1884, the young prince had moved to his own palace and Saranarom was then vacant.
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Diagonally opposite of Wat Po and across from the rear of the Grand Palace is an almost forgotten shady oasis known as Saranrom Park. The park makes for an interesting place to rest if you're trying to explore the old royal city beyond the confines of the Grand Palace and Wat Po.
Across from the old elephant gate to the Grand Palace is the small former palace of Wang Tha Phra. The palace was built on the order of King Rama I for Prince Kasattranuchit, the son of the king's elder sister. The palace was occupied by a succession of princes up to the turn of the twentieth century.
The Throne Hall of Tha Phra Palace The last royal occupant of the palace was Prince Narisaranuwattiwongse, generally referred to as just Prince Naris.
Facing the north end of the great Sanam Luang field, the National Gallery occupies an elegant early 1900's building that used to house the Royal Mint. It was converted by the fine arts department to house the national gallery in 1974. The permanent collections are a bit mundane, consisting of modern portraits and a few traditional paintings, but the special exhibitions can be quite interesting.
The main building of the National Gallery From February to June every year, the gallery's courtyard plays host to weekend 'art markets'.
For just about 150 years, Bangkok's Grand Palace was not only the home of the King and his court, but also the entire administrative seat of government. Within the crenelated walls were the country's war ministry, state departments, and even the mint. Thai Kings stopped living in the palace full time around the turn of the twentieth century, but the complex remains the seat of power and spiritual heart of the Thai kingdom.
Just inside the north-east entrance to the old city precincts, on the city's "main street" Ratchadamnoen Road, is the temple of Wat Ratchanadda. In this temple is one of the most unique temple structures in Bangkok: the Loha Prasat ("metal castle"). The prasat appears almost Burmese in design, although in fact it's a copy of an old style of Buddhist structure found in Sri Lanka, but now almost unknown. It was begun in the early nineteenth century by Rama III, but only recently completed.
A little north of the Grand Palace compound, between the fine arts Silpakorn University and the University of law and sciences, Thammasat, lies the ancient temple of Wat Mahathat. Founded in the eighteenth century, the temple pre-dates the founding of Bangkok, but was considerably altered after one of its monks, the young Prince Mongkut, later became King Rama IV of Thailand.
The line of Buddha images around the outer wall of the courtyard The temple is the center of the Mahanikai school of Buddhism, and as such is a center of monastic learning for members of the sect from throughout Southeast Asia.
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Just behind the opulent extravagance of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha stands Wat Phra Chetuphon, which is more commonly known by its old name of Wat Po. Most western tourists don't get past the temple's huge reclining Buddha, but there is actually much more to see than the one colossal statue.
Just across Lawd (or Lord) canal, about a block from the Grand Palace, is the beautiful temple of Wat Ratchabophit. The temple was commissioned by Rama V late in the nineteenth century.
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The temple's unique design has the large wiharn (prayer hall) and ubosot (ordination hall) linked by a circular courtyard.
The pagoda of Wat Ratchapradit faced with small marble tiles This crowded little temple lies behind Saranrom Park, not far from the Grand Palace and Wat Po. It was built by Rama IV (King Mongkhut, 1851 to 1868).
Immediately inside the gate, you ascend a short stairway to a platform supporting the ubosot surrounded by several prangs and a large chedi (pagoda) behind. The ubosot, including its round columns, and the pagoda are completely surfaced with small square tiles of gray to white marble tiles.
