Looking across Rama III park at the Loha Prasat
Across the street from the fort is Rama III park, built to honor the king who started both the Golden Mount and Wat Ratchanadda, which stands behind the park. In the formally planted gardens of the park are a statue of King Rama III and a delicate gilded pavilion of Thai design. Beyond the park along the main boulevard is the Ratanakosin Exhibition Hall, a new (in 2010) museum recounting the history of the royal city area. Tours of the museum are guided only and can take a couple hours, but there are a couple of coffee shops on the ground floor if you're in need of refreshment.
Spend as much time as you want to explore the small park, then proceed on to Wat Ratchanadda behind the park. Within the temple compound is one of the most unusual temple buildings in Bangkok, the Loha Prasat. Like the Golden Mount, the prasat ("castle") was also started by King Rama III, but only recently completed. The building is so unique that it's featured on the Thai 500 Baht bank note.
In addition to the Loha Prasat, Wat Ratchanadda also has a thriving amulet market. Here you'll find anything and everything to bring good luck or ward off evil spirits. If you wander through the market and out the back, you'll see more of the market, plus the painted ruins of another temple.
After browsing the amulet market, you need to backtrack a little bit by returning to the Golden Mount. If you want to vary the scenery a little, try passing through one of the two arched openings in the old city wall extending from the Pom Mahakan fort. This will take you to an open space from which you can get a better view of the fort. You can reach the bridge over the canal by walking along the canal towards the fort, which will bring you back to the front. Re-cross the two canals to get back to the Golden Mount.
Walk past the gate to the Golden Mount. Enjoy the honeyed smell of sawdust until the narrow street you're on is crossed by a major street: Bamrung Meuang Road. Cross the street and continue on a short way. Turn down the first alley on your left, Soi Ban Baht. This takes you into the area known as the Monk's Bowl Village. The village was established by King Rama I to manufacture alms bowls for monks. Although every monk in the kingdom still carries an alms bowl, the village itself is not very active. You may, or may not, hear the pinging of hammers as you walk down the street.
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